THE COLOUR OF LIFE
LE ROUGE COLLECTION No.1
The colour of life and death, love and desire, innocence and experience… Contained within this colour of extremes are many metaphors for the emotional dichotomies of life. And it is those emotional extremes that Lucia Pica, CHANEL Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer, seeks to evoke in her debut collection for CHANEL Beauty.
‘RED IS THE COLOUR OF LIFE, OF BLOOD, I LOVE RED.’ Gabrielle Chanel
For Fall 2016, LE ROUGE · COLLECTION No.1 explores the abstract and expressive resonances of the colour red while reconfiguring its role in beauty. At times, Lucia Pica seeks to transform the traditional role of red, at once celebrating and subverting its classic status as the preeminent colour for lipstick, blush and nail varnish. While still partaking in the search for the iconic and classic in each area of the collection, Pica also confounds expectations and takes the red into unexpected realms, particularly that of eye makeup, evoking emotion and passion here too.
It is no surprise that red is one of the power colours of CHANEL Fashion and a foundation colour of CHANEL Beauty. Introduced in 1924, CHANEL’s red lipstick, both a signature of Gabrielle Chanel’s personal style and an icon of the beauty house, has never been out of fashion or out of production. Through its many incarnations, it has been used from the beginning for both its attractive and combative qualities, with Gabrielle Chanel saying “mettez du rouge et attaquez*”. It was a fascination with this iconic red, and her own personal obsession with the colour in general – red is often a signature in her editorial work – that led Lucia Pica to explore the colour further. Here, in LE ROUGE · COLLECTION N°1, Pica’s concept of feminine power, passion and emotional preparedness for everyday life, is expressed through the multiplicity of reds to be found throughout.
Le Rouge Collection N°1
Model : Kristen Stewart
Photographer : Mario Testino.
Makeup: Eyes : Les 4 Ombres 268 Candeur Et Expérience, Stylo Yeux Waterproof 928 Eros – 929 Agapé, Le Volume De Chanel 10 Noir, Crayon Sourcils 30 Brun Naturel. Lips : Rouge Allure Velvet 56 Rouge Charnel, Le Crayon Lèvres 57 Rouge Profond ; Nails : Le Vernis 528 Rouge Puissant.
The flush of love and desire, health, fever or youth, each is evoked in the form of blush. The synonymous rouge, the original cosmetic red, falls in and out of favour through the ages, and yet is returned to once again, its pull eternal.
In LE ROUGE · COLLECTION N°1, there is a search for the definitive blush, the definitive rouge. Here it finds form in the JOUES CONTRASTE Rouge Profond, deep red. A silken pressed powder formulation, part way between matte and shine, the profound brick red can be lightly worn for naturalism or more intensely applied and stylised. Nevertheless, worn either way, its sumptuous, breathable form feels perfectly in tune with the wearer’s skin, as natural and smooth as a flush of blood.
The power of the female gaze, from the vulnerable to the victorious, is celebrated through the disarming and seductive power of eye makeup.
Subversion and compulsion run throughout LE ROUGE · COLLECTION N°1, but are perhaps most evident in the concentration on the eyes. Oppositions and dualities blend together, from innocence to experience, a red undertone uniting all.
The pairing of Eros and Agapé, the erotic and the spiritual, is found in the STYLO YEUX WATERPROOF eye pencils. Eros, a brown burgundy red, unnerves with its intense, emotional quality when worn. While Agapé, a rich brown with a slight red undertone, smoothly soothes expectations.
Together with the DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL mascara, an aubergine black named Subversif, an idea of disruption is embraced with the more usual seductive qualities of eye makeup.
In LES 4 OMBRES powder eye shadow palette, Candeur et Expérience, a medley of browns – warm, light and deep – have an idea of innocence subverted in a contrast with a deep brick red.
While ILLUSION D’OMBRE VELVET, a luxurious and sensual matte cream in deep chocolate brown called Rouge Contraste, falls in relief to the equally sensory high shine copper orange of the ILLUSION D’OMBRE Rouge Brûlé. Each equally blend and bend to the will of the wearer.
From disreputable painted ladies to Elizabeth I, red lip colour has travelled through the ages from the profane to the powerful and the desirable. Perhaps the ultimate cosmetic symbol of female strength, it still evokes a sense of seduction and command.
In LE ROUGE · COLLECTION N°1, red finds itself in this more traditional terrain of lip colour, yet still elicits startlingly sensuous results and contrasts. From the classic to the combative and on to the discreet, the red proves as versatile as ever.
The super smooth ROUGE ALLURE lipsticks are positioned for contrast this season. The discreet, innocent shine of Rouge Ingénue, a warm and dusty pink beige, is paired with Rouge Tentation, a much more knowing and sensual affair in intense red.
A quartet of the matte ROUGE ALLURE VELVET lipsticks, rich in texture and in meaning, provide a profound pulse of colour for lips. Rouge Charnel’s powerful fire red, Rouge Feu’s luminous orange, Rouge Vie’s deep rosebud and Rouge Audace’s rich chocolate burgundy point to a wealth of experience and experimentation for the wearer and maker.
From the spontaneous to the more coolly calculating, in LE CRAYON LÈVRES precision lip pencils the startling orange-red of Désir is placed alongside the slow burning, rosebud brick of Séduction. As always, each is a contrast and a complement to the other.
Denoting wealth and status in ancient China nail colour spread throughout the upper echelons of the ancient world. Here, it would truly embrace the high-flown power of red. Its startling properties continue today, and red is still prized as the preeminent colour for nail varnish.
In LE ROUGE · COLLECTION N°1, the power of red is once again unashamedly esteemed as the colour for nails. At the same time, there is a distinctly contemporary variation to be found in the collection, a new form that makes modern use of its more ancient connotations.
LE VERNIS GLOSS Rouge Radical takes the form of a high shine, jelly and transparent vibrant orange-red, playfully enveloping nails with a liquid fire.
While LE VERNIS LONGUE TENUE Rouge Puissant, extols the virtues of a traditional, powerful and profound red. Here, it is unmistakeable in its sensuous and serious intent. Apply it with LE GEL COAT to improve nail polish hold and add extreme shine.
‘IN THE COLLECTION THERE ARE IDEAS OF SUBVERSION AND CLASSICISM.
IT IS ABOUT THE POWER OF FEMININITY, BUT ALSO VULNERABILITY. RED IS INTENSE, VULNERABLE, SEXUAL AND ETERNAL.’ Lucia Pica